Sylvain Kerdraon
Kitchen
Trained at St John, then Quality Chop House. He is at the market at six every morning and writes the menu on the way back.
The house
Opened in 1987 by Roger Fougère, taken on in 2016 by Sylvain and Léa, who changed almost nothing.
Roger Fougère opened this room in 1987, in a former wine merchant's whose bar he kept. He served the same lunch special for twenty-nine years.
Sylvain, who cooked at St John and Quality Chop House, took it on in 2016 with Léa. They rebuilt the kitchen, kept the bar and the banquettes, and kept writing the menu in chalk.
The only real change: the menu is shorter than it was. Six dishes instead of fourteen, because we would rather make everything ourselves.
Kitchen
Trained at St John, then Quality Chop House. He is at the market at six every morning and writes the menu on the way back.
Front of house and cellar
A sommelier by training. She chooses the growers one by one and will guide you by the glass.
Sous chef
Ten years in the house, including under Roger. He runs the puddings and Monday's terrine.
Twenty-eight covers in the room, eight at the bar, six outside in warm weather.
The room
Original pewter counter, eight seats. This is where you eat alone at lunchtime.
The room
Period red leather, reupholstered identically in 2016. Twenty-eight covers.
Outside
Six tables from April to October, in the shade, on the quiet side of the street.
The bar is open from noon, no booking needed.